On 26 November, my alarm went off at 01:00. Given the expected congestion at Schiphol Airport, it was recommended to arrive at least three hours before departure. With a mixture of excitement and anticipation, my parents drove me to the airport. There, I met my travel buddy for the flight, Rick, with whom I would journey to Las Palmas. After saying goodbye to my parents, we walked together to the gate.
The Eendracht office had arranged everything perfectly. Due to my visual impairment, travel assistance was provided, allowing us to bypass the long security lines and move to the front. At the gate, we met Ruben, who would also be my buddy on board, along with another crew member. After a few hours of waiting, we boarded the plane first and departed at 06:00 for Las Palmas.
We arrived in Gran Canaria at 09:40 local time and took a taxi to the harbor in Las Palmas, where the Eendracht awaited us. The crew welcomed us warmly. After unpacking, we had some time before lunch, so Ruben and I decided to take a short walk. Having visited Las Palmas with the Eendracht the previous year, I knew the way to the city center.
Back on board, guests gradually arrived. After the skipper’s welcome briefing, we met our watch group. Since this voyage included a youth program, all young participants were grouped together. Our white watch included the two Rubens, Laura, Sigrid, Tessel, Djania, and our watch leader Marleen. A buffet was waiting for us.
After dinner, it was time to set sail. Everyone helped to cast off the mooring lines and stow the fenders. We set off for Cape Verde. That first night we motored, with no watches, allowing everyone to rest after the flight.
The next morning, Sunday, we were woken at 07:00 for our watch from 08:00 to 12:00. With a pleasant breeze and sunshine, we started the day. After breakfast, it was time to raise the sails. Once all lines were run out, we began with the outer and inner jibs, and shortly after, all sails were set. The feeling when the engineer stopped the engine and we sailed purely under wind power was incredible.
The following seven days were dedicated to the crossing. With consistent winds, we headed toward Cape Verde. We spotted flying fish and dolphins. Over the course of the journey, we learned that the flying fish leap from the water when chased by predatory fish. Each day, we kept up our watches, and as we approached Cape Verde, the weather grew warmer, as did the sea.
During one of our night watches, the bosun gave a lesson on determining location using a sextant. The night sky was so clear that we could see the stars and even some planets.
On 2 December, land was finally in sight. After an incredible watch until 08:00, we spotted a bird, identified as a Booby. During our 12:00–16:00 watch, the bosun explained the plan to anchor at São Nicolau for a day, but the skipper did not receive permission to enter the harbor. With this disappointing news, he raised the sails as the wind picked up and we set course for Sal.
The next morning, 3 December, we approached Sal, the journey’s endpoint. After a week at sea, it was a unique feeling to finally set foot on land. After lunch, a small group took a taxi to Santa Maria, the most touristy area on Sal. We enjoyed drinks at a beach bar, some went swimming, and we explored the souvenir-filled streets. I bought a few keepsakes, though I couldn’t find a missing blouse from my luggage. Back on board, a barbecue buffet awaited us, and the day ended with a disco party in the tea garden.
On 4 December, we woke early for a full-day tour of the island with our guide, visiting Blue Eye, an ancient crater along the coast, and a shallow bay where we waded with small, friendly lemon sharks up to 70 cm. Lunch was at the guide’s family restaurant with a traditional Cape Verdean meal. Later, we visited a saltwater lake where the high salinity allowed us to float effortlessly, followed by a stop at a mountain viewpoint where mirages created the illusion of dinosaurs and monkeys. Returning to the ship at 18:00, we enjoyed dinner and said farewell to departing guests.
On 5 December, we cast off again, motoring in the morning while preparing the sails for lunch. With a gentle breeze, we sailed toward Santiago, spotting a small whale en route. Being 5 December, we also celebrated the Dutch tradition of putting our shoes under the table, some containing poems or carrots for Ameriko.
On 6 December, after arriving in Santiago early, I opted out of the two-day island tour due to the heat and walked with Djania, exploring the town. We wandered through the old city, visited a chapel, enjoyed coffee, and explored the medieval fort and boulevard. On 7 December, I stayed on board to assist in the galley, preparing dinner, and later explored the town with Fred.
On 8 December, we anchored in a bay on Fogo, overlooking a shipwreck. Those hiking to Pico do Fogo were ferried ashore via the tender. I stayed on board, helping in the galley, and later went swimming with the bosun; the water was 26°C. We stayed overnight before departing the next morning.
On 9 December, we approached Brava, but were not allowed to dock. We hoisted the sails and spent the day at sea, heading toward Mindelo, passing the island of Maio. On 11 December, during my 04:00–08:00 watch, Santo Antão appeared to port and Mindelo to starboard. We arrived around 10:00, explored the market, and enjoyed drinks with fellow crew and travelers.
On 12 December, we took the 07:30 ferry to Santo Antão for the final excursion. We toured the island, stopping at viewpoints and visiting the lush central areas. We returned by ferry for dinner on board, exhausted but enriched by the day.
On 13 December, the ship was restocked in preparation for the next crossing. We departed at 12:00 with strong winds, hoisting sails en route to Sal. The final day at sea, 14 December, featured calm sailing until the wind dropped near the harbor. Just before arrival, a pod of dolphins swam alongside the ship, delighting everyone. We reached Sal at 16:00 and concluded the trip with a barbecue and disco.
On 15 December, we enjoyed a last full day together, walking along the boulevard and having drinks at a beach bar before a final dinner on board. On 16 December, it was time to pack and depart. Thanks to the skipper arranging a taxi, we were transported efficiently to the airport. The flight back to the Netherlands was smooth, landing safely at Schiphol at midnight, where family awaited.
It was an unforgettable journey aboard the Eendracht, filled with adventure, learning, and camaraderie. Many thanks to the Eendracht crew and office for an incredible experience.