There she lies, under the Spanish morning sun. Just off the plane, exhausted but full of good spirits, we arrive. From the bus, we immediately spot the three masts; the Eendracht is docked in the port of Las Palmas. Now the journey can truly begin: sailing from Gran Canaria to the Cape Verde Islands!
We quickly step on board to stow our backpacks in our cabin and then head into Las Palmas for the afternoon. It’s late November, 25 degrees warm, and we stroll through a Christmas market. We pass by Columbus’ house, admire the colorful houses in the San Juan district, and enjoy a refreshing iced coffee on a terrace. Time to return to the harbor. By now, the other participants have arrived, and soon we meet our Blue Watch. In the tea garden, we get briefed about the trip and the ship. Then it’s a cozy dinner together before we set sail. We wave goodbye to Gran Canaria. Off to bed quickly, because our first watch starts at midnight.
Completely dark, only the distant lights of the Canary Islands in view, no previous sailing experience, and you’re immediately put at the helm. What an experience. Countless stars, a thousand and one shooting, and the waves shimmering in the moonlight. Looking up, you see the masts gently swaying under the starry sky, and spontaneously the Pirates of the Caribbean tune plays in your head. Nothing else matters just enjoying the moment.
In the coming days, we settle into the rhythm of watches, learning that you could easily fall out of bed if you forget your plank. We learn all about sailing: keeping the ship on course, tying knots, tacking, hoisting sails, and lowering them again. Some watches are calm, giving us time to enjoy the stars, the emptiness of the ocean, a little sun, midnight toasties, and keeping the ship safe with all fire and leak rounds. Other times the watches are more active, and before you know it, you’re meters above the deck, wobbly, at the very front of the ship in a climbing harness, lowering the outer jib.
Between all the sailing, there’s plenty of time to relax. Lying back with a book and some music on deck, you watch the sails against the deep blue sky and soak in the sun. We get to know the incredibly kind crew better and enjoy the company of our fun watch.
It’s a special experience to be so far out at sea alone. The vast emptiness yet so much to see. Waves so high the horizon disappears, countless flying fish, and, with some luck, dolphins and even a turtle. The feeling of being alone in the world becomes extra clear when, after a few days of sailing, we finally spot another ship on the horizon. What a sense of peace this journey brings.
After a week at sea, we arrive in Cape Verde. Due to a combination of changing winds and the bureaucracy of the island group, we don’t stop at another island first but dock straight in Sal. We spend a day exploring the island and enjoy a refreshing caipirinha on the beach. That evening, the trip concludes with a barbecue on deck. The fish had been hoisted aboard that morning in a bucket tied to a rope after a deal with a local fisherman and his colorful boat. Spirits are high that evening, and before we know it, the deck has turned into a dance floor. Fittingly, Guus plays through the speakers: “To sail the right course, with the wind at our back, enjoy life to the fullest; these times never come again.” And that’s exactly how it is.