No two voyages with the Eendracht are the same. The weather, the destination, the crew, and—last but not least—the fellow passengers are all factors that make each journey unique. Yet one thing is constant: it always provides an unforgettable experience. In this article by blogger Mario from Vakantaseren, you’ll discover what an island-hopping trip in the Cape Verde Islands looks like.
First Time Onboard
If it’s your first time sailing with the Eendracht, stepping aboard is a truly special experience. In the harbor of Palmeira on the Cape Verdean island of Sal, the ship awaits. Once over the gangway, a crew member greets you and shows you to your cabin, where you can store your belongings. You’ll also find out which of the three watches you’ve been assigned to: red, white, or blue. Your watch is the group you’ll spend most of your sailing time with, particularly during active sailing. Each watch has a quartermaster who explains the sailing procedures and guides you on what needs to be done during your shift.
Gradually, all new passengers arrive. Most will have already spent a few days on the island, and some you may have met on the flight or at a local café. This is also the perfect opportunity to get acquainted with your fellow watch members.
A Welcome From the Captain
On the first evening, a delicious meal is served in the crew room—an ideal chance to get to know your watchmates better. It’s also the moment when the captain formally welcomes everyone aboard. The crew is introduced, and the captain outlines the planned route, of course subject to the whims of the wind.
After a cozy first evening, it’s time for bed—or rather, your bunk. Sleeping on a ship for the first time can be a bit of an adjustment, especially if you’re in the top bunk. Slowly, you are lulled to sleep by the gentle rocking of the ship.
The First Instructions
The following morning, after breakfast, it’s time to get started. A safety briefing, known as the lifeboat drill, is a standard procedure at the start of every voyage. You’ll learn how to properly put on your life jacket, where to assemble in case of an emergency, and what to do if someone falls overboard.
After the drill, the real adventure begins. Your watch’s quartermaster explains basic sailing maneuvers. Initially, it can feel overwhelming, with terms like port, winch, topsail, mast hitch, and lines flying at you—but soon, you’ll recognize and remember them all.
Raising the Sails
And then the moment arrives: the anchor is lifted, and once at sea, the sails are hoisted. On a three-masted ship like the Eendracht, this is a demanding task that often requires all hands on deck. But once the sails are up, it’s sheer delight to sail powered entirely by the wind. Fortunately, there is enough wind on this first full sailing day to reach our first destination under sail. By late afternoon, we anchor off the southern coast of Sal, near Santa Maria.
Duties of the Watch
Being part of a watch means more than just hoisting sails. You’ll also take turns at the helm, keep lines tidy, set tables, serve fellow passengers during meals, and help with the dishes. There’s always something to do. At night, inspection rounds, including fire and leak checks, are added to ensure the ship’s safety while everyone sleeps.
The First Excursion
After a second day of sailing, we reach our next island: Boa Vista. Once anchored, the watch system is no longer necessary, allowing passengers their first chance to step ashore. This alone is an adventure: you descend a ladder into a wobbly tender, shuttling passengers quickly to the shore.
Boa Vista is perfect for an excursion. The crew has prepared much of the day’s activity, and many passengers join the tour. In pickup trucks, we explore the island’s highlights: vast desert dunes, rugged coasts with caves, and endless white beaches beside an azure sea. We even spot a few turtles swimming. The freshly grilled tuna served during lunch is perfection—a recipe for a truly memorable day.
Too Little Wind
Unfortunately, there isn’t enough wind, so the captain decides to motor to our next destination. A pity, but it’s part of sailing. Every downside has an upside: without sailing, we can sleep through the night since no watch system is needed. After a day of motoring, we stop at another island, San Nicolau. Here, passengers again use the tender to reach land. Some even swim from the ship to shore, while others jump into the water from the bow—challenging given the strong currents. That evening, a BBQ on deck awaits, featuring freshly grilled tuna. Later, we continue motoring toward Mindelo, a lively port town on São Vicente, the fourth island of our journey. Again, we go ashore via our tender. Although it’s a quiet Sunday, the town charms with its historic center and Portuguese influences. Together with fellow passengers, we dine at a local restaurant where live music fills the air.
Santo Antão: Cape Verde’s Most Beautiful Island?
The next morning, we rise early for our second major excursion, catching the 7 a.m. ferry to Santo Antão. Some of the group embark on a challenging hike, while others explore the island’s hidden gems with local guides. Unlike most islands, Santo Antão is lush and mountainous. Throughout the day, we stop at breathtaking viewpoints—arguably the most stunning island of our trip. In a small fishing village, we help local fishermen haul their boat ashore and enjoy a traditional Cape Verdean lunch. The excursion concludes with a tasting of grogue, the local rum.
At 4 p.m., we return to Mindelo. Our final evening in this historic town is spent dining at a cozy restaurant and dancing to the music of Cesária Évora, Cape Verde’s “Queen of Morna.”
Two Days Sailing Back to Sal
The weather forecast is favorable. The ship is prepared, sails are hoisted, and the watch system reinstated. We now face roughly two days of continuous sailing. Being on watch means four hours of active duty followed by eight hours of rest. Due to wind conditions, we cannot sail in a straight line, so we tack several times—a simple task on a small sailboat, but on the Eendracht it requires preparation and teamwork. Hearing the sails flap, feeling the spray over the bow, and hauling the lines is exhilarating, instilling immense respect for nature.
This is also our first night watch. Though clouds obscure the Milky Way, sailing through the night remains magical. The rest of the crew sleeps while our watch keeps the ship on course. Everyone gets a chance at the helm, literally taking the ship into their hands—an unforgettable experience. Night watch also includes a beloved Eendracht tradition: making toasted sandwiches (tosti’s) in the galley.
Returning to the Start
After two days, Sal, our departure point, comes into view. The sails are lowered for the last time. With Sahara desert sand covering the deck, a thorough cleaning is needed. Fire hoses and other cleaning tools prepare the Eendracht for the next group of passengers.
Another highlight is the final evening, which has a festive atmosphere. A special meal is served on deck, and passengers can dance, drink, and laugh. Whatever happens on this night aboard the Eendracht… stays on the Eendracht—a lively, colorful celebration.
Farewell
After an unforgettable island-hopping journey, the next morning is for farewells. Everyone packs, tidies their cabin, settles accounts, and exchanges contacts. And just like that, the voyage ends—but the memories remain.
Day-to-Day Program
1. Boarding the Eendracht, Palmeira, Sal
2. Sail to and anchor off Santa Maria, Sal
3. Sail to and anchor off Boa Vista
4. Day excursion on Boa Vista
5. Sail to San Nicolau, ashore with tender, depart toward Mindelo
6. Sail to Mindelo, ashore with tender
7. Day excursion on Santo Antão
8. Sail to Sal
9. Sail to Sal
10. Offshore arrival at Sal, gala evening
11. Arrival at Palmeira harbor, Sal
Practical Information
Stops and excursions during the Cape Verde island-hopping voyage are not fixed in advance. Previous trips have included day excursions on Santiago and Fogo.
If you’d like to experience an unforgettable journey like Mario, see our offers at https://eendracht.nl/travel-package/.